Count on excellent food at Borago

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Published: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 at 01:43 PM.

GRAYTON BEACH — It is always a pleasure to dine at Borago. The Grayton Beach restaurant has been operated by its current owners (both of whom are chefs) for more than a decade. Each time I dine there, I find a welcoming atmosphere and excellent food.

The food
The food at Borago makes you feel not only fed, but also nourished. It is comforting rustic Italian fare. While there are contemporary twists here and there, much of the food makes me think of what I would find at the home of a good cook if I were visiting Italy.

The meal begins with a basket of focaccia accompanied by a dish of olive oil, cheese and balsamic vinegar.

A wonderful example of the style of food is the starter of veal meatballs with soft polenta and roasted tomato sauce. The tender meatballs are served in a pool of creamy polenta, with tomato sauce as the perfect foil for all that creaminess.

One of my favorite Italian dishes is arancini, breaded and fried balls of rice with a melty cheese center. Borago’s version is served in a pool of tomato sauce and pesto. The dish is pretty and delicious.

The starter menu also includes cornmeal dusted calamari, seared rare tuna and mushroom ravioli. Pan seared scallops with polenta and tomato butter sauce is an excellent option.

Salad portions are generous. There is a classic Caesar, mixed greens with Roma tomatoes and fontina, and an arugula salad. The arugula had a nice peppery flavor that was accented with Gorgonzola and sweet walnuts.

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